A Plea for Planned Parenthood

My father and I at my brother's Bar Mitzvah. My grandmother is there in spirit.

Scents of Self is first and foremost a perfume blog. I have always felt that this is not the right space for political debate, and so I have never once used it to air political opinions. But today I must speak.

Breast cancer has great significance for my family. My father, president of Weinberg Medical Physics LLC, is a pioneer in the field of breast cancer detection. He invented PEM, positron emission mammography. With a 92% rate of cancer detection, PEM scans detect breast cancer more accurately than standard mammographies (which have a 78% rate of cancer detection). My father’s mother, Helen Weinberg, died of breast cancer at age 70 in 2003. She was the godliest woman I have ever known. It was my grandmother who taught me that we must be kind and decent to others, particularly those who are less fortunate than us. It is with her lessons in my heart that I write this today.

Susan G. Komen is the world’s largest non profit breast cancer charity. Yesterday, Susan G. Komen announced that it would no longer be funding breast cancer screenings at Planned Parenthood Clinics. Planned Parenthood is a reproductive health care organization. They have 800 clinics in the United States. Because the fees of Planned Parenthood services are determined on a sliding scale (meaning that women with lower income pay lower prices), Planned Parenthood is essentially the only affordable source of reproductive health for many women.

Yes, we all know that Planned Parenthood provides abortions. However, over 90% of the services performed by Planned Parenthood are actually preventative. These include birth control, STD tests and treatment, and, of course, cancer screenings. Planned Parenthood clinics have performed over 4 million breast cancer screenings over the past 5 years. 170,000 of those were made possible by funding from Susan G. Komen.

I don’t care what you think about abortion, and neither does breast cancer. It affects the pro-choice and the pro-life alike. When the day comes that you need a breast cancer screening, I hope to God that you can afford a private clinic. Because thanks to Susan G. Komen, Planned Parenthood just became a little less likely to be able to provide you with one.

I would also like to share with you some interesting information about Susan G. Komen’s spending. These numbers come straight from Susan G. Komen’s 2010 financial statements.  In 2010, Susan G. Komen raised $389,309,686. $76,769,686 of that was spent on fundraising and administrative costs. Of the remaining $283,179, 167, $75,407,069 was spent on research, $140,773,507 on “public health education”, $46,860,822 on health screening services, and $20,137,769 on treatment services. In other words, Susan G. Komen allocated more money to “public health education” than the amounts they spent on research, health screening services, and treatment services added together.

Look, y’all, we know what breast cancer is. It was identified in 1600 B.C. The public is already educated. We don’t need any more pink ribbons, “save the boobies” t-shirts, special beauty products, or cutesy Facebook statuses. Raising awareness of breast cancer is no longer the top priority; research, early detection, and treatment are. And if you donate to Susan G. Komen, that is not where your money will be going.

I have never stepped foot in a Planned Parenthood. God willing, I will never need to get an abortion. I was privileged to attend a private high school with adequate sexual education. But considering my family history of breast cancer, it is very likely that I will eventually need breast cancer screenings. No matter what she is there for, a woman who receives treatment at Planned Parenthood clinics is no less of a person than I am. She is no less deserving of breast cancer screening than I am. I will be donating to Planned Parenthood today in honor of my brave grandmother. She believed in always doing the right thing, even when it is difficult or unpopular.

Lush Gorilla Perfume Tuca Tuca

My mother does not wear perfume. She and my father are (allegedly) allergic to it. When I excitedly showed her my new bottle of L’Artisan Safran Troublant last month, her only comment was “It’s not terrible.” (You don’t even want to know what she said about L’Heure Bleue.) My mother has only really connected with my love of fragrances on one occasion: when I asked her to try a discontinued perfume, Guerlain Meteorites. Upon smelling Meteorites, she gasped and said that it smelled just like a violet-scented doll that she had as a child. She even compared it to Proust’s beloved madeleines.

Tuca Tuca will be practically Proustian for anyone with happy memories of violet-flavored confections like Parma Violets or Choward’s Violet Mints. This gorgeous perfume is as instantly cheerful as its name. Violet fragrances are tricky. They tend to be unbalanced, skewing either too sweet, too powdery, or too green. Tuca Tuca skillfully avoids each of these potential pitfalls. Tuca Tuca is one of the very few perfectly candied violet perfumes, and is no doubt the most easily accessible and inexpensive of the lot. At a criminally cheap $29 an ounce, I consider this a must-try for anyone seeking a sweet violet fragrance.

A word of caution: I like Tuca Tuca best in the solid perfume formulation. The liquid version is a little screechier.

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Lush The Smell of Weather Turning

Lush fragrances were barely on my radar before Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez raved about the line in their Perfumes: The Guide. I was most intrigued by their description of Lush Breath of God, which they declared “a triumph” and awarded one of their rare five-star ratings. I finally tried Breath of God recently, and I found it… strange. Not strange and beautiful; just strange. In my opinion, The Smell of Weather Turning is the Lush perfume that truly deserves the attention and accolades.

The official list of notes are oakwood, hay, beeswax, nettle, English peppermint, mint, Roman chamomile. Here’s what I smell: a nighttime barbecue deep in the forest. The Smell of Weather Turning opens with smoke and bracing peppermint. You don’t smell the mint so much as feel the cooling effect. Then it becomes tree sap, green and spicy. The chamomile note adds a beautiful clarity to the drydown. For those worried by the name, I promise that there is not a hint of aquatic notes in The Smell of Weather Turning. The Smell of Weather Turning is exactly what I had hoped to find in Breath of God: both strange and beautiful. It’s the perfect perfume to add a little wonder to life when everything begins to feel a little too routine and ordinary.

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Lush Week 2012

Due to some fairly traumatic experiences at a cult-like Socialist/Zionist summer camp, I have a deep distrust of anything even vaguely hippy-dippy. The following phrases immediately arouse my suspicion: “all-natural”, “green”, “organic”, “holistic”, “the man”, “jam session”, and “goats”. (We raised our own goats at that summer camp. They smelled terrible and were unbelievably bad-tempered. God, I hate those goats.)

YOU ARE THE WORST

So no one was more surprised than I by my recent interest in UK brand Lush. All of Lush’s products are vegetarian (many are even vegan) and over 70% are all-natural*. Their hideous packaging is designed to be environmentally friendly and reduce waste. They are about as green as it gets. Nothing about Lush should appeal to me conceptually, and yet I squeal like a preteen at a Bieber concert every time I enter one of their stores.

Here’s why Lush succeeds where so many others have failed: the Lush experience is really, really fun. Being socially responsible and environmentally friendly are not usually particularly fun, unless “An Inconvenient Truth” was your idea of a good time. (No judgment if it was. Love me some Al.) Too often, beauty companies genuinely attempting to support good causes come off as overly earnest or even judgmental. Nobody wants to feel like they have to buy your organic shampoo out of guilt, or because you’ve put them on the verge of a nervous breakdown about global warming and the potentially tragic future of the polar bears. (This happens to me all the time, by the way. A good 15% of my time is spent silently freaking out about what’s going to happen to the polar bears. I’m pretty fun to be around, you guys.)

OH GOD WHY WOULD ANYONE TAKE A PICTURE OF THIS

Lush manages to keep everything positive. The stores, which are set up like a fruit stand at a bazaar, are colorful and interactive. You can cut off your own chunk of soap, try on a cupcake-scented face mask, or set off a bath bomb. Lush wisely allows its products to speak for themselves rather than resorting to scare tactics. Who needs to threaten impending polar bear doom when you sell bath bombs that are shaped like robots and turn your bath water exciting colors? I have decided to honor Lush’s quality products and commendable marketing by dedicating this week to reviewing some of their Gorilla Perfume fragrances. Thank you, Lush, for putting the “fun” back in “the last polar ice cap will melt in 2042.”

What do you think about Lush, and about natural/green brands in general? Are you a fan of any of the Lush fragrances?

*http://www.lushusa.com/shop/about-lush/articles/

Diary of a Mad Perfume Blogger

A tender moment between a cat and her green bean.

Friday, January 20th: My beloved friend K, who is thinking about moving into my apartment when my current housemate moves out, comes over to determine whether she is allergic to the kitteh. To my amazement, Zelda conducts herself very nicely, with almost minimal biting. K and I enjoy some TOTALLY NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES and watch Beverly’s criminally unjust elimination from Top Chef.

After a few hours of playing the green bean game with Zelda (the green bean game consists of throwing a green bean to Zelda and then watching her joyfully dissect it), it is determined that K is not particularly allergic to her. To celebrate the happy results of our incredibly scientifically rigorous experiment, we head out to the local pub.

Before we leave, I spray on way too much Prada Candy. I figure that it’s sweet and fun enough for a night out, but not so sexy that it implies I’m on the prowl. The pub has incredible fries, which are promptly commandeered by the men sitting next to us. Baltimore is a very friendly town, but I do sometimes wish that they would let me finish my fries for once.

The fry drama is eventually settled, mostly because there are no longer any more fries. We bid a not-entirely-regretful goodbye to the fry thieves and head out into the very first snowfall of the winter. We shriek at the snowflakes collecting in our hair, but I am secretly delighted. Baltimore always looks so beautiful in the snow. Everything is quiet and serene, except for our resident hobo Crazy Mike, who is loudly insisting that he killed my sister. I would probably be more concerned if I had a sister.

Saturday, January 21st: I wake up with a ruthless headache and several unusual items in my purse. These include a pair of sunglasses which do not belong to me, an Edgar Allen Poe coaster, and a phone number written in very messy Arabic. I have no idea what to do with the sunglasses, but the headache is easily vanquished with the help of a Satsumo Santa Lush bath bomb. Even more fun than the bath bomb itself is watching poor Zelda’s bewildered reaction to the pink water and the gleefully fizzy Santa.

Zelda watches cautiously from the shore.

For those of you who are just joining us, Zelda is closer to a jaguar than an average house cat. She is a savage, violent creature. Until recently, the bath tub was my last safe place. Not anymore. Now she can swim. But today Satsumo Santa and I reclaimed the bath tub, if only for a few tranquil minutes. Today’s fragrant mistake was Balenciaga Paris. I retry it from time to time, because it got so many great reviews praising it as “quiet” and “elegant” when it was first released. Unfortunately, today it’s just as high-pitched as I remembered it.

Sunday, January 22nd: I begin work on the essay for my intersession class about the Fitzgeralds. I’m writing about Zelda Fitzgerald’s novel Save Me The Waltz, and the symbolism of its many mentions of eau de cologne. Save Me The Waltz is actually a highly fragrant novel; Zelda mentions Coty Jasmine, Coty L’Origan, and an unnamed Elizabeth Arden perfume. I am convinced that if she had been born a few decades later, Ms. Fitzgerald would have made a fantastic perfume blogger. Although a cologne would have made more sense, I wear the exuberant hazelnut fragrance Parfumerie Generale Aomassai to keep my spirits up while I read the Fitzgeralds (which is harder than it sounds, because man those two were depressing).

Drew wants to have dinner somewhere fancy for Restaurant Week, so we choose a place down in Mount Vernon with epic salted caramel brownies. I decide that this is the perfect occasion to debut an adorable new Rebecca Taylor dress. However, the truly unfortunate happens: the dress goes rogue. It fit fine when I bought it only a week earlier, but now the damn zipper keeps splitting.

After literally half an hour, the dress is finally fully zipped. I’m a little freaked out, to be honest. I have gained weight recently. Most of the time I feel okay about it, but discovering that a favorite piece of clothing is now too small can still be disheartening. However, I am determined not to let the self-doubt ruin our night. I put on one of my favorite Star Trek episodes, “A Piece Of The Action”, in which Kirk takes on a hilariously bad Chicago accent. Shatner’s voice quickly works its usual soothing magic. I soon feel comfortable enough to put on a red lipstick, spray on some Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose (the fanciest perfume I own), and relish my salted caramel brownie.

Someone apparently decided that Star Trek needed more pin stripes.

The “Help Ari Buy Her Boyfriend The Best Valentine’s Day Present Ever” Perfume Sale!

Please help me fund the ultimate Valentine’s Day present for my boyfriend Drew! I can’t tell you what the present will be yet (he reads this blog), but I promise to post all about it. All prices are negotiable. I will ship anywhere. All decants are $15 for 5 ml and $25 for 10 ml. All samples are $2 each and are manufacturer’s samples unless otherwise noted. (Someone bought the samples! Yaaaay!)

Full Bottles

Prada EDP Refill 75 ml - $45 (98% full)

Molinard Fleur du Chocolat 50 ml- $35 (sprayed twice)

Cartier Baiser Vole mini 15 ml- $25 (sprayed twice)

Balenciaga EDP mini 7.5 ml- $15 (applied once)

Love Chloe mini 5 ml- $10 (applied once)

Decants

Prada Candy

Estee Lauder Azuree Soleil

Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille

Guerlain Après l’Ondée

L’Artisan Safran Troublant

Cartier Baiser Vole

Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse

M.A.C. MV3

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Kate Walsh Billionaire Boyfriend

Please note that I have not yet tried Billionaire Boyfriend. This post is in response to the concept behind this new perfume.

My angel! I’m so sorry, you caught me a little unprepared. I gave Jeeves the day off, he told me something about needing to have some words with Kate Walsh. You know Jeeves. Always such a kidder.

Why, darling, you’re hardly dressed for a day on the yacht! Where is your Prada sunscreen? Your Missoni muumuu? Next you’re going to tell me that you forgot your Gucci sandcastle bucket!

Why, pet, whatever could you mean by “Can we take the smaller yacht today?” You know perfectly well that I just had Jeeves prepare the S.S. 1% for our lunch with William and Kate! It would positively break Jeeve’s heart if we didn’t use it after he put so much effort into that diamond-encrusted anchor. And it always raises the serfs’ spirits to see our flag on the horizon.

You want a what? A job? Is that one of those ghastly STDs that all the commoners seem to have? Work? Well, naturally! I’ve been saying for years that it’s time for you to take over Mother’s position on the National Ballet board. No? Oh, I see, you genius girl. You’re holding out for the National Opera.

Look, I don’t know who this Gloria Steinem character is, but I don’t think she’s being a very good influence on you. Please don’t make me call Mother and have her disinvited from the Save The Dwarf Hamsters gala next month. Is she one of your Real Housewife friends? No? Is she a Kennedy? Those damn Kennedys. Can’t trust ‘em farther than you can throw them. What do you mean, “male gaze”? What the hell is a “proletariat”?

Sweet John D. Rockefeller! What’s gotten into you, precious? Look, those awful feminists are gone now, you don’t have to pretend anymore. We both know that all you want is to stay in our tastefully decorated home while I drunkenly invade Father’s stockholder meetings and carry on remarkably indiscreet affairs.

No, no, don’t speak, turtledove. I can see the rapturous agreement in your eyes. That’s what every woman wants, isn’t it? A billionaire boyfriend! No need for silly things like a job or an identity. My goodness, sometimes it’s positively exhausting to be so in touch with women’s needs. I may well have need of the smelling salts.

Why, poppet, you’re crying! Tears of joy, how very touching. Here, have my best handkerchief. It’s terribly soft, isn’t it? Jeeves wasn’t even using that chest hair.

And the winner of the Dammit Jim giveaway is…

Undina, as decided by random.org! Congratulations, and thank you so much to everyone who entered. Live long and prosper! (Psst…. Undina’s Looking Glass just celebrated its first birthday!)

I Am Running Out Of Ideas

I have been writing about perfume almost every day for two years now. This blog and the people who read it are often the best thing about my day. For the first time since I started Scents of Self, I don’t know what or how to write. I am hoping that finally being able to refill my ADHD medication will help some, but for now it is honestly kind of scary. I don’t feel that this blog’s time has come yet, so I’m turning to you for help. I need ideas,  y’all! What kind of posts do you want to see? What subjects or topics would you like to be covered? I will consider (and probably implement) any and all suggestions. Thank you very much in advance.

How To Buy Someone Perfume For Valentine’s Day

This morning, I received a desperate text from my long-distance best friend that read “[My boyfriend] says he’s going to buy me perfume for V-day. I need ideas!” Well, Scents of Self to the rescue, y’all. When you have finished reading this article, you will be a veritable master of Valentine’s Day perfume presents. Please try not to abuse this awesome power.

Step 1: Get a sense of your intended gift recipient’s tastes.

What perfumes has he or she worn in the past? Are there any connections or common themes between these fragrances? Perhaps your IGR has never worn perfume. In this case, we’ll have to start with the basics. What are his or her favorite smells? If he or she mentions naturalistic smells such as “fresh-mowed grass” or “the smell of the ocean”, you’re probably going to be looking at light, clean fragrances. If he or she says “a bouquet of [insert favorite flower here]“, we’re talking florals. If he or she salivates over “fresh-baked brownies”, you’ll do well to focus on gourmand fragrances. The website Basenotes provides a helpful basic guide to the different types of fragrances, with examples of each type.

Be sure to also take note of what kind of things your IGR enjoys outside of fragrance. Is he or she a label-lover who has never stepped a Manolo-clad foot inside a Walmart? You’re probably best off sticking to the big names, such as Chanel, Dior, or Prada. If, instead, your IGR is a tree-hugging hippie with a carbon footprint in the negative numbers, he or she might be happiest with a gift from natural or organic perfume lines. If you’re buying for a hipster who delights in the obscure, your best bet is a niche brand that only 5 people in the world have ever heard of.

From here, you have two options.

Step 2A: Take your IGR shopping with you and allow them to pick out a perfume for you to buy. I consider this the less romantic option.

Step 2B: Present your intended gift recipient with a collection of 5-10 samples which, based on the information you gathered in Step 1, you think he or she will like.

Giving your IGR five to ten choices greatly increases the chance that he or she will like at least one of them. DO NOT JUST BUY YOUR IGR ONE PERFUME. This has a much lower rate of success, and is quite likely to be returned. How will you get these samples? You have two choices: in person at stores, or online. I highly recommend the online option, but if you are short on time, here are some rules for in-store interactions. First, do not talk to the salespeople. For more information, please refer to this post. Your own nose will tell you whether what you are smelling is a floral or a candy-sweet gourmand. Do not talk to them until you are already sure of which fragrances you would like to have samples made of, and are ready to ask them to make or find those samples.

Here are the stores who will make you a sample of anything in the store: Nordstrom, Sephora, bluemercury, Lush. Here are the stores who will give you pre-made manufacturer’s samples if they have them and if you ask nicely: Saks Fifth Avenue, Barney’s New York, Macy’s (if you ask VERY nicely). Here are the stores who will not give you samples under any circumstances unless you have already purchased something, and maybe not even then: Neiman Marcus and virtually everywhere else. Feel free to add to this list in the comments, y’all.

If you are instead ordering your samples online, the process is significantly easier. There are three main websites from which to order samples: LuckyScent, The Perfumed Court, and The Posh Peasant. Each has their own advantages. LuckyScent is probably the best choice for beginners. It has the fastest delivery, and its website groups fragrances into many helpful categories based on fragrance family or specific notes. Each sample costs between $3-$5. The Perfumed Court and The Posh Peasant, however, offer a greater selection of vintage or discontinued fragrances. Many smaller perfume houses, such as Ineke or Andy Tauer, offer sample packs on their own websites. The samples will not come wrapped in anything more glamorous than bubble wrap, so make sure you have your own pretty wrapping supplies on hand.

Step 3: Observe your IGR’s reactions to the samples. Act accordingly.

Most likely, your IGR will have a clear favorite. Hooray! Buy that one! If your IGR does not like any of the choices, you can resort to Step 2A, start over at Step 2B, or give up entirely. Frankly, I would give up entirely. Some people are more into the idea of receiving perfume for Valentine’s Day than the actual perfume. Buy them a nice book or a coffee machine instead. Take comfort in the fact that you have at least learned not to talk to perfume salespeople.

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