I’m really not the person who should be reviewing Silences EDP Sublime. I don’t do florals, much less green florals. I consider them the domain of more elegant women (I define an elegant woman as one who eats something other than Fruity Pebbles for breakfast). Unfortunately for y’all, I’m pretty much the only person out there who has a sample right now! Silences EDP Sublime does not appear to be available outside of the brick-and-mortar Henri Bendel yet, but the very kind Jacomo rep gave me a sample at Sniffapalooza.
Silences opens with thrillingly harsh galbanum. It initially reminds me of Maison Martin Margiela Untitled, which smelled something like Chanel No. 19 smoking a cigarette. This is my favorite stage of the fragrance. The crispness quickly gives way to a softer, more floral feel, roses and a gentle hint of fruitiness. Jacomo’s note list identifies this as blackcurrent, and I don’t know what blackcurrent smells like on its own, but I can say that Silences reminds me very strongly of Puredistance I, another lovely green floral with blackcurrent. The drydown is a standard clean musk that mingles nicely with the green notes that came before it.
I’m not sure how much fans of the original Jacomo Silences will enjoy Silences EDP Sublime. The Non-Blonde describes vintage Silences as one of “the meanest and greenest oakmoss bombs” of the 1970s, and this modern version is certainly not that. The galbanum note loses its bitchiness after ten minutes max, there’s no oakmoss, and this is undeniably not a chypre. It is, however, an attractive and reasonably-priced addition to the prim green floral category. I wish that more reformulations of classic vintage fragrances turned out this nicely.