The first paragraph of Jean-Claude Ellena’s The Diary of a Nose reads, “Since I started composing perfumes I’ve learned, I’ve invented “catchphrase-smells”, like the first sentence, the first notes of a piece of music, the initial images that are reworked at length to capture a reader’s, a listener’s, a spectator’s attention. So that he or she wants to carry on, in order to pursue the pleasure. In a society where speed is everything, perfumes are judged in a couple of seconds, as if at a glance. The hastiness of these assessments upsets me: a perfume can only truly tell its story when it is smelled and worn.”
I’m not sure what happened during the three years between that diary entry and the release of Jour d’Hermes, but Jour d’Hermes is exactly the kind of perfume that Ellena condemns in his Diary. The top notes, a burst of lilies brightened with lemon, are nothing short of exquisite. But each time that I put my nose to my wrist after those thrilling first ten minutes, I find that the fragrance has become thinner, more synthetic. After perhaps 45 minutes, Jour d’Hermes is just another pleasant but unremarkable lemony floral.
Quite a few other perfume bloggers really liked Jour d’Hermes; Robin at Now Smell This bought a bottle, as did Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels. Jour d’Hermes is even The Candy Perfume Boy’s fifth anniversary perfume. Here’s my explanation: I have extremely dry skin. Virtually zero perfumes last even an hour on me. I figure that Jour d’Hermes’ beautiful top notes must last longer on its fans.
If you liked Cartier Baiser Vole, another photorealistic lily perfume, then I think you might really enjoy Jour d’Hermes. Although I just called Jour d’Hermes’ drydown “unremarkable”, it’s actually much more successful than Baiser Vole’s drydown, which had an unfortunate Maxipad vibe.
SCENTS OF SELF 
Totally agree with this post. TOTALLY AGREE. I found the beginning to be pretty: lovely grapefruit + lemon notes. But the dried down was just… musk. I barely found the florals in this. I could say more about the whole situation surrounding Jour d’Hermes but I’ll restrain myself.
I really liked Baiser Vole, and actually, I think the new(er) extrait of Baiser Vole saves the drydown problem it had. The drydown is a lot warmer in extrait; I put the extrait on my buy list. I agree that the BV EDT is just too blah/personal care product in the end.
I am NOT a fan of lilies and Baiser Vole is a scent that I find gag-inducing yet I love Jour d’Hermes. The lemony floral just screams ( in a very cultured way, of course, dahlink) ‘Spring’ and I would happily own a bottle.
I couldn’t stand Baiser Vole long enough to discover the ‘maxi-pad’ accord but the scent picture does the job! Someone should do a scent called ‘Carefree’ or ‘Always’ and just use the ‘scent’ from those items- would probably sell like hotcakes. 😉
Jour is indeed very spring-y, dahlink! 😉 I don’t even want to think about how well an “Always” perfume would do. Then there are the flankers, “Protection”, “Security”, etc, etc!
I would really like to try Baiser Vole parfum- is that the all-silver bottle? I keep getting it confused with the EDT. Why Baiser Vole even needed an EDT in the first place is anyone’s guess…
Yup, the all-silver bottle is the extrait. I think it’s much, much better.
Ari, don’t you worry about Jour d’Hermes – this perfume left me totally ice cold! I don’t like it at all!
We appear to be the minority this time around, Lucas! I don’t dislike Jour d’H, but I don’t think it’s as great as it could have been.
I haven’t tried this one, but I tend to think 75% of Ellena perfumes smell the same after 15-20 minutes. Unpopular opinion, I know, but … he always uses like the same five materials! I sort of appreciate him in an abstract way but I can’t wear any of them.
I like quite a few JCE creations (Bois Farine, Ambre Narguile), but I suppose they are the exceptions to the rule. I bet you would find Diary of a Nose really interesting- he really goes into the evolution of his style.
This scent also left no impression on me, and while I usually like to think that I am above the superficial stuff the bottle is hideous (it just reminds me of nail polish!)
Eeek! The bottle is certainly not in the league of the gorgeous bottles for Eau des Merveilles or 24 Faubourg.
Dear Self
Well The Dandy must try this one again as on the blotter I rather liked it, though as has been pointed out that is not a good indicator either of suitability to skin type or progression.
Certainly a scent that seems to be dividing opinion!
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
Come to think of it, I haven’t even smelled it on a blotter! I was so excited to finally see the bottle at my Nordstrom that I went straight for the wrists.
HILARIOUS!! I love Baiser Voile and having never smelled a maxi pad, though we have a drag queen in Sydney called Mai Sheilds and she wears Sunflowers by EA, I cannot make the correct connection. Sadly and gladly, because I have a bottle.
Portia xx
Thank you, Portia! Hmmm, it is a funny smell to try to explain! A very clean, mild floral scent, utterly unnatural. Can anyone else offer a description?
BTW Are you doing a CHARITY FRAG SALE this year? I have just cleaned 2 boxes of stuff from my frag wardrobe and would love to see them go to good homes and raise funds for a good cause.
Portia xx
I would love more than anything to do a charity sale again, but I am having a lot of trouble keeping up with classes (it’s the last desperate push until graduation), and I know I wouldn’t be able to stay on top of things. I hope that someone else will take up the mantle!
I just snorted coffee through my nose re: “maxipad vibe.” Hahahahaha. 🙂
I cannot take the credit! I believe that Patty at Perfume Posse commented on it in her review, too.
My skin can get pretty dry, but I found Jour d’Hermès to last a little longer than the average JCE fragrance. I do have to say that on me there is almost zero development. But I like it. If I need something a little sunny floral that is elegant and that I don’t have to think too hard about, it’s nice.