Full disclosure: I cannot objectively review Pomelo Paradis because I am a one-woman Ralf Schwieger cult. (We are currently accepting new membership. Dues are payable in perfume samples. All hail Ralf.) Mr. Schwieger was the one and only perfumer who responded to one of the hundreds of increasingly desperate networking emails that I sent during my year in New York. And not just responded- he generously put me in touch with his fragrance firm’s office manager, who called me in for an interview that very same day. I am still awestruck by the kindness and helpfulness he showed to an unknown, lowly aspiring perfumer. Ralf Schwieger for sainthood! Ralf Schwieger for Pope! Hillary Clinton/Ralf Schwieger 2016!
Even pre-cult, Ralf Schwieger was one of my all-time favorite perfumers. From Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose to Hermes Eau de Merveilles to Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, he never fails to deliver creative, vibrant fragrances, and Atelier Cologne Pomelo Paradis is no exception. Pomelo Paradis opens with one of the most thrillingly realistic grapefruit notes in fragrance history. I can detect some tangy blackcurrant, but I don’t get any of the florals that are supposed to be in here. Pomelo Paradis stays perfectly juicy and bitter for about half an hour before softening into a quieter, sweeter grapefruit scent, where it stays for the remaining two hours. I wish that the gorgeous top notes lasted longer, but Pomelo Paradis is priced decently enough that I don’t mind reapplying. Compared to some other classic grapefruit scents, Pomelo Paradis is rounder/fuller than Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and a bit sweeter than Guerlain Aqua-Allegoria Pamplelune.
Monday Motivation is a (hopefully) exciting new feature that I’ve borrowed from the beauty blog Temptalia. Every Monday, I tell you what’s motivating me to get through this week (perfume-wise and otherwise), and then ask you to do the same!
I’ve got hella motivation this week in the form of an epic Sephora order in the mail. My beloved reader Debra has known me since I was 8, so she instinctively knew the perfect graduation present for me: Sephora gift cards! After a very thorough perusing of the Sephora website, I decided on a small bottle of Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, the Urban Decay Naked 2 palette, and an aqua Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics nail polish. I’m so freaking excited- Orange Sanguine is going to be amazing for the summer.
What’s getting you through the week? Please share with us in the comments!
Chanel Chance was my very first perfume, but the original Prada fragrance was the first perfume I ever really loved. That Prada is an absolute patchouli boooomb, as described by the following horrified MakeupAlley review: “It smells like a chain-smoker and an alcoholic, who hasn’t showered in days, eats spicy food every day, and decided to mask it with a perfume.” (All credit to poetic user “happygirl1”.) I mention this to prove my patchouli cred. I am a hardened patchouli veteran, and I was ready for whatever version of patchouli Mistral Patchouli had to offer me. You can imagine how disappointed I was when I realized that out of all of the possible patchouli fragrances that Atelier Cologne could have made, they went with a “where’s the patchouli?” patchouli.
Mistral Patchouli’s most prominent notes are grapefruit and “fraction of patchouli”. As far as I know, this is a novel combination, and in theory I like it very much. In execution, however, Mistral Patchouli is just too damn clean. The grapefruit note lacks the vibrance of past fruity Atelier Colognes, such as Orange Sanguine. The patchouli is much too sheer and is so far removed from the natural earthiness of patchouli that the relation is barely visible. Robin at Now Smell This correctly labels Mistral Patchouli as “a patchouli for patchouli haters” in her review, and mentions that this is now her favorite fragrance of the line. I have to say that it’s my least favorite. There’s nothing wrong with Mistral Patchouli. It smells very nice. But it just doesn’t have as much character as past Atelier Colognes like Orange Sanguine, Vanille Insensee, or Rose Anonyme. I think I’ll stick with my alcoholic/chain-smoker patchoulis.